A Day Downtown
The best place to experience Charleston's charm is on the historic peninsula. I moved downtown in 2017 and love feeling the current of progressive, vibrant energy that runs through the city. Though it's not necessarily bike-friendly, if you're brave enough, it's the best way to explore downtown and create a breeze on the days so thick with humidity you could slice them with a butter knife... which is all 250 days May through December.
Start your day downtown in the French Quarter with a vanilla spice latte from Harken Cafe on Queen Street. The cozy, cottage aesthetic conjures Beatrix Potter, and their "no laptops" rule preserves available seating and encourages conversation. Their gorgeous orange La Marzocco espresso machine matches the terra cotta mugs perfectly.
Browse the nearby art galleries. My favorites are Anglin Smith on Queen St and Helena Fox on Church Street. Jahde Leather Atelier next to Harken is basically a gallery of its own. Then seek out a few of the churches that make us the "holy city." I love the Circular Congregational Church and its centuries old cemetery. Keep an eye out for wrought iron gates by famed blacksmith Philip Simmons, like the "egret gate" at 2 St Michael's Alley.
Eat early to avoid the tourist crowds. My favorite lunch spot is Basic Kitchen where they make plant-based food taste sinfully good. Get the Health Insurance mocktail, buffalo cauliflower "wings," and vegan caesar salad.
If you prefer a picnic, pick up a BBQ sandwich and Nehi grape soda from Burbage's Grocery. Head over to White Point Garden to dine under the shade of the oaks and then watch for dolphins in the harbor. This is where you'll find the oldest, grandest homes in the city. My favorite stretch is lower King Street from Broad to the Battery, especially 59 King with its diamond trellis of Carolina jasmine.
Heading uptown on King Street will take you through the shopping district. Steer clear of national brands and stick to the local boutiques. I'm a sucker for shiny things and wouldn't dream of going downtown without stopping by Croghan's Jewel Box, even if it's just to window-shop their storefront (especially magical at Christmas). Inside you'll find the affordable Goldbug collection along with the not-so-affordable estate section. Swoon!
Once on Calhoun Street, you can see the amazing fossil collection at the Natural History Museum and visit Mother Emanuel AME Church. Though solemn, I encourage you to pay tribute to the "Charleston 9" who were killed there in the 2015 Church Shooting.
There isn't enough rooftop dining downtown, but I love the view from Dewberry's Citrus Club, Hotel Bennett's Fiat Lux, and The Watch at The Restoration. I used to love the rooftop at Market Pavilion, but they required close-toed shoes and we are always in flip-flops!
My favorite fancy dinner restaurant is F.I.G. on Meeting Street. It stays booked, but they save a few tables for walk-ins so it's always worth a try, especially if you go early and sit at the bar. If you're lucky enough to snag a spot, get the local lettuce salad. It's ever-changing depending on what's in season and always delicious.
For a more casual dinner, we love Rappahannock Oyster Bar at the Cigar Factory. If you like raw oysters as much as I do, you know it’s hard to find them for less than $3, but this spot offers $1 oysters specials.
I think the best month downtown is June. College of Charleston students bring youthful energy, but navigating/enjoying the city is much easier once classes let out for the summer. The Spoleto Arts Festival is in June, and that's when Charleston shines its brightest. I'm obsessed with the outdoor concerts at the Cistern on CofC's campus. The canopy of ancient live oak trees dripping with Spanish moss creates a setting more elaborate than any theater set. I don't care if it's latin jazz, bluegrass, rock or symphony... that venue makes everything sound good to me!
Just remember that the sunset doesn't change a thing in terms of temperature. I've seen musicians have to re-tune their instruments halfway through an outdoor performance thanks to the heat and humidity. Even dressed in linen you'll have a constant bead of sweat dripping down the center of your back, but you can consider it a badge of honor. Afterall, you haven't truly experienced Charleston until you're as sticky and salty as the pralines at Market Street Sweets.
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